ANGKOR WAT: Rebirth of a forgotten Temple City

The anticipation and excitement woke me at the crack of dawn. I checked and rechecked my camera gear repeatedly to ensure that there was no hiccup at the last minute. A short car ride later we were at the site.

It was already getting crowded as we entered the hallowed grounds. Travelers from around the globe, some alone, others in pairs or groups arrived to witness and marvel at the marriage of the resplendent and mystical sunrise with this magnificent holy shrine. It is truly a match made in heaven. Looking around I finally found my ideal spot --- a suitable elevation on one of the peripheral temples to place my tripod and camera. With great anticipation we all faced the East. Billowing clouds, the darkness and mist shrouded the area adding to the mystery. As the darkness gradually lifted and haze receded, like an apparition arising from the darkness, the suns rays illuminated the majestic edifice soaring into the heavens. It was as if Brahma the creator was painting a celestial masterpiece on his canvas of heaven and earth, creating a dazzling display for his mortal subjects. A stunning monument, “Angkor Wat”, literally meaning Temple City, a creation that rivals the Pyramids of ancient Egypt and the Colosseum of ancient Rome.

Built by the God-King, Suryavarman II, the unifier of the Khmer people, in the 12th century AD, it was a Hindu temple city dedicated to Lord Vishnu, unlike the Shaiva tradition of previous kings. Conceived with courage and audacity, King Suryavarman, instructed his head Architect-priest, to design a Temple of such beauty and grandeur, unrivaled in the world, as an everlasting legacy of his reign. Built over a period of 30 years, it continues to remain a powerful symbol of the Khmer-Cambodia of modern times, and is depicted in their national flag and currency notes.

The temple is a representation of Mount Meru, home of the Gods and prime example of classical Khmer architecture. One of the recurring themes that I saw in the bas-reliefs and the sculptures was the “Samudra Manthan” of Hindu mythology, where the Devas and Asuras churned the ocean, for Amrita, the nectar of immortality, using Mount Mandara as the churning rod, supported by Kurma, the turtle avatar of Lord Vishnu, and Vasuki the serpent as the rope.

Mahayana and later Theravada Buddhism replaced Hinduism, in Cambodia, in the 13th Century and Angkor Wat became a Buddhist shrine. But the underlying Hindu theme remains intertwined with Buddhist tradition. There are walls and walls of bas-reliefs and intricate carvings depicting scenes from the Ramayana. The Hindu trinity of Brahma the creator, Shiva the destroyer and Vishnu the preserver adorn the many stupas.

It was ironic that my Khmer Buddhist guide, who took me around the temple, reconnected me to my Hindu roots, not in Hindu India but in Buddhist Cambodia.

Tai Namphake Monastery

Nestled between bamboo groves and tall tamul (betel nut) trees on the banks of the Buri Dihing river, near Naharkatia, is the  quaint little Tai Namphake Buddhist Monastery. It is the heart and soul of the surrounding Namphake village. On a recent visit to Assam, I was surprised to learn of this Buddhist community. On my sister's recommendation, my brother-in-law, Dipayan and I set off early one morning from Duliajan to the village of Namphake. Arriving at the village, I was enthralled by the sight of the Monastery, a distinctive treasure standing firm, in the midst of the serene greenery and banks of the mighty Dihing.

A self guided tour of this quiet monastery revealed a large central prayer hall with numerous idols of the Buddha ... welcoming, peaceful and uplifting. Numerous ancient Buddhist manuscripts are preserved in the monastery.  As I closed my eyes I could hear the harmonious chants of the monks reciting their morning prayers. And the mantra "Om Mani Padme  Hum" resonated in my mind.

Although Buddhism originated in India, (Gautama the Buddha was a Hindu prince),  it did not take firm root in the county, being unable to compete against the dominant  Hindu religion. In time Buddhism eventually migrated outward and established deep roots in Nepal, Sri Lanka, Burma, Cambodia, Thailand, Tibet and many South Eastern countries. Most of the Tai dispersed in a wide swath from Burma, Thailand and Cambodia practice Theravada Buddhism.

On the courtyard of the monastery, the famous Ashoka chakra  encouraged us to follow the eight fold path of the Buddha. We contemplated on this for a while, then slowly ambled out and made out way into the village.

The thatched chang ghars, (houses built on stilts), stood tall beckoning visitors to admire their quaint beauty.  I stopped ... captivated by the idyllic scene. The lady of the house was outside pounding rice, with her little son playing nearby. A few chickens ran hither and thither. A dog slept in the courtyard oblivious to the surrounding activity. The village appeared to be frozen in time.

The Tai Phakes of Upper Assam, a Tai race, migrated to Assam from the Howkong Valley of Myanmar in 1775, (not to be confused with the Thai of Thailand). Indeed, Tai is a generic name of a major branch of the Mongoloid people of Asia. The Ahoms of Assam are also a Tai race who came to Assam in the 12th century and established the Ahom Kingdom

The Phakes came  through Assam's Eastern mountainous corridors.  In 1850 they established  Tai Namphake the oldest and most respected Buddhist monastery in Assam.  Since they came relatively recently, they still maintain their distinctive culture, which can be seen in their festivals, clothes and cuisine.  They are bilingual, speaking the Phake language among themselves, and Assamese with those outside of their community, (you could compare them to the Amish in America).

We experienced the Phake traditions and hospitality when the lady invited us in. She showed us around her spotless home and then served us tea with traditional Phake rice snacks, on the veranda of her chang ghar. I was touched by her hospitality.  She spoke with us in Assamese, but  communicated with her son in her native Phake language, which has some similarity with the language of Thailand. A weaving loom stood in the veranda with a half finished shawl. But I could not help notice a brand new refrigerator and satellite dish nearby in stark contrast to the rustic surroundings --- the pervasive reach of technology had not spared even this remote village.


After that delightful cup of rejuvenating tea we left the village of Nam Phake with a deep sense of satisfaction and peace within.


"All that we are is the result of what we have thought. The mind is everything, what we think, we become" -- The Buddha

Tilinga Mandir (Bell Temple)

On a trip to to my ancestral home, Guwahati, Assam, India, I took a side trip to the oil city of Duliajan to spend a few days with my sister and brother-in-law. On the morning of my return, I was persuaded to make a quick  pilgrimage to the Famous Tilinga Mandir , where if one pledged a Tilinga (Bell) with utmost devotion,  ones miseries will be mitigated and wishes fulfilled.  I vaguely remembered hearing about it, but the fable is well known in this area.

The story goes that a tea garden worker discovered a "Shiva Lingam" emerge from the ground at the base of a banyan tree in 1965. It became a place of worship and later a temple was built at the site. It became customary for worshippers to hang a tilinga on the  huge banyan tree, if their wish was granted. These days prayers at the temple, by devotees,  are associated with a "tilinga" offering.

My brother-in-law and I set off early morning to the little village of Bordubi, where the temple is located. After driving for a while on the dusty and potholed back country road we came upon the roadside temple, quite abruptly, after turning around a bend. It was unmistakable. Four gigantic bells adorned the small roof of the temple. And the banyan tree stands majestically, heavy with all sizes of tilingas, glimmering in the morning sunlight. The most amazing spectacle was the back wall of the temple  adorned with  thousands of bells, no longer shining, from decades of exposure to the elements, but occasionally tinkling in the wind as a silent reminder of the legions of pilgrims who have come here to seek the blessings of Lord Shiva.

There are numerous small roadside shops selling flowers, coconut and other religious offerings but the most striking items are the brass bells. It is customary to buy a couple of bells -- one to be hung at the temple and another to take home. After a prayer at the Lingam, and blessings from the priest, I hung a bell at the alter of the temple, and like legions of pilgrims before me I left with the other bell with a sense of  peace and fulfillment.